A suitable way to mark the Hurt Locker's Oscar victory is with a healthy dose of that grenade-shaped vegetable, the aubergine - or eggplant, if you live closer to the red carpet than we do. Split open a pita, stuff in slices of boiled egg, boiled potato and fried aubergine, add a finely chopped tomato, onion and cucumber salad, pickled cucumbers, some fiery mango chutney (amba, as they say in those parts), a sprinkling of parsley and a drizzle of tahina, and voila - or yalla - an Iraqi sabich to make even a soldier weep. But perhaps that was just the onions.
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